West Highland Free Press - Aftermath Reaction

Well, it appears that the battle for the front page of the WHFP has been won by Ollie the cat and the crofters of Lewis. The latest edition of the paper gives an update to the lives of West Highlanders who are trying to make a return to some form of normality (page 17).

The story reads:

West Highland ex-pats in Japan try to resume sense of normality

West Highland exiles in Japan were this week continuing to do their best to resume a sense of normality following the catastrophic earthquakes and tsunami of a fortnight ago, writes Keith MacKenzie.

Portree man Kane Davidson, who we last week reported had fled the country with his young daughter amid fears over radiation from the stricken Fukushima nuclear power plant, was preparing to return to Tokyo having spent the past seven days in Hong Kong with his brother Mark.

"The situation with the nuclear power station appears more stable, if not entirely under control," he said on Tuesday. "I will be ready to move again if the situation once again seems uncertain."

Press reports yesterday (Wednesday) said water supplies in some parts of the nation's capital were found to contain radioactive iodine levels twice the recommended safe levels. And Mr Davidson said tensions remained high.

"We all suspect more is to come," he said. "The primary concern remains the nuclear power station in Fukushima -a region where my family and I lived for four years. But there is also anxiety regarding the next big quake. The ex-pats in Tokyo certainly worry that the recent quake may be the precursor to a more devastating one in the Tokyo metropolis."

Meanwhile, Faye MacKenzie, who is from Dunvegan and works in the publishing industry in Tokyo, highlighted the stoic reaction of the Japanese people as the horrors unfolded.

"At present, I feel pretty safe here. I have my earthquake kit ready, know my evacuation points, and for the moment, radiation levels are normal, which is obviously the big concern," she said at the start of the week. "Otherwise, day-to-day life continues. My office is open and it's business as usual.

"If this was anywhere but Japan, I think I'd have gone straight home. Japan is no stranger to earthquakes, though, and despite the terrible loss of life up north I'm still amazed things weren't worse - it's been pointed out to me by many people that most lives were lost in the tsunami, and not the earthquake.

"Immediately after the quake phone lines were busy, but internet and email worked, and I was able to contact friends pretty quickly. Trains were cancelled, and traffic was gridlocked well into the night, so I ended up staying at work until about 10.30pm and walked home, along with thousands of others. It took about three hours, but was orderly and civilised and despite the gridlocked traffic, people were waiting for the green man to cross the road. Literally, this is the politest place on earth."

Return to Japan

As indicated in a previous posting, Clara and I reluctantly returned to Japan on Wednesday 23rd March. Although the situation in Japan is far from ideal on a number of fronts, the situation at the Fukushima nuclear power station appears to have stabilsed. The day Clara and I flew out of Japan, the situation appeared to be worsening minute by minute. By the end of our stay in Hong Kong, minor battles were being won by the engineers up in Fukushima.

As is apparent from the news, the situation is still very serious. Should there be any further hint that control may be lost once again, perhaps an impromptu holiday in Okinawa will be called for. The current situation in Tokyo is not ideal, but not one of great hardship. There are very occasional power cuts, train schedules have been pared slightly, and people are very conscious to look after each ampere of electricity.

So, many of my foreign friends wonder what the future holds. Perhaps the Japanese do not think about the future so much as they are fully committed to the physical and economic recovery of their country. Foreign residents have many wider issues to consider (although perhaps of a lesser gravity) and a greater range of options. Power cuts are expected to continue, and perhaps increase as the forthcoming summer heat forces people to turn on their air conditioners. The newspaper cutting indicates the schedule of blackouts in the Tokyo area. Areas are divided into groups, with each group scheduled to have a 3-hour blackout at a pre-planned time.

Aftershocks still rock the Tokyo area - there was a long magnitude 6.3 shock a couple of hours ago. Many people remain on edge and are keeping their fingers crossed there are no more traumatic events to follow. It will take a long time for nerves to settle and for us all to be confident the ground we are walking on is solid once again.

Ocean Park

On Monday 21st March, Clara and I headed off to Ocean Park amusement park, near Aberdeen, Hong Kong. Clara and I had originally decided to go to Disneyland but were advised by all we met that Ocean Park was by far and away the best option.

I felt that as Clara and I had travelled all the way from Japan, it was only right that we should treat ourselves to a blue riband event. We left the house slightly later than intended (no change there) and got the by then familiar fast ferry over to Pier 6 in Central Hong Kong. A short wait ensued until the bus picked us and and delivered us directly to Ocean Park after a 20 minute journey.

I was hoping that the park would be extremely quiet as it was a Monday. However, there were still hordes of people milling around and I immediately realised that a weekend trip to Ocean Park would be the mother of all nightmares.

We entered the park and then chose the Emerald Trail as our first attraction - so boring I will not go into any detail. Our day then appeared to get worse as we queued to take the cable car over the mountain to the other side of the park. We had to queue for 45 minutes, and similar to the rest of Hong Kong, there was a pneumatic drill in close proximity. I measured the sound at over 100dB using an application on my iPhone. However, this marked the nadir of our day and things were soon to dramatically improve. Clara and I found the views from the cable car around Ocean Park, over Aberdeen, and into Lamma Strait absolutely amazing. It was a gorgeous day and the cable car ride alone would have made the day trip worthwhile. Once the cable car trip had ended, we found ourselves on a promontory overlooking Lamma Strait. Fantastic views and impressive to see the massive cargo vessels slowly working their way down the strait.After the cable car ride we took a ride down the relatively placid Raging River, terrified ourselves on the roller coaster-esque Mine Train, and then spent a very pleasant and relaxing time watching the dolphin and seal show at Ocean Theatre. I feel slightly wicked for downplaying the Mine Train ride to Clara. I assured her it would be relatively benign, but it was nothing of the sort. We were both absolutely terrified and Clara held on to me like a limpet mine. The terror we experienced on this ride meant that trying out The Abyss would have to wait to another day.

Towards the end of the day, we visited the surprisingly empty panda enclosure. It seems the local Chinese population are much more interested in the thrills and spills of the rides than they are in one of the symbols of their country. Surprising, but this allowed Clara and I a clear view. Interesting to note that pandas also suffer from the effects of red eye.

A great day out with Clara, and we even managed to squeeze in an impressive acrobatic show on our way out of the park. Thoroughly recommended, but perhaps not on a weekend - must be absolute chaos.

Our Time in Hong Kong

Despite the desperate circumstances which led to Clara and I heading to Hong Kong, whilst we were there, we resolved to enjoy ourselves. I cannot adequately describe the relief felt not having to worry about aftershocks and the threat of radiation.

Our time was spent mostly around Mui Wo village on Lantau Island (where Mark and Grace live), although we did foray in to Central Hong Kong a couple of times, visited the large Buddha, and made a day trip to Ocean Park amusement park.

Many people commute into Central Hong Kong by ferry. I cannot think of a more dramatic or interesting way to get to work. The waters around Hong Kong are a hive of activity with vessels of all shapes and sizes at anchor waiting for their berthing slot. Although I work in shipping, the size of some of the vessels was breathtaking. Hong Kong is a city which feels right at the forefront of international trade and commerce - it feels a happening place where everything is in flux. One downside to the ever changing nature of Hong Kong is that you are never too far from pneumatic drills and pile drivers.

It was touching to see displays of support for Japan at places around Hong Kong. I noticed this sign at a coffee shop on Mui Wo pier whilst Clara and I were waiting for the ferry to travel into Central.

The village where Mark and Grace live is a real backwater. The village has a real country feel with bicycles far outnumbering cars with people relaxing outside various small restaurants chatting and supping drinks. Despite the slow life in Mui Wo, it is only a short ferry ride into the maelstrom of Central Hong Kong. There are also quite a number of nice beaches around, the one below just outside the Silvermine Hotel where I stayed last November whilst attending the wedding - perfect for barbecues once the weather warms up a bit.So, Clara and I were lucky enough to stay in a nice location that offered the opportunity for excitement or relaxation.

Big thanks have to go to Mark and Grace who were perfect hosts to us during our visit to Hong Kong. They both cooked some lovely meals and made Clara and I feel very much at home. Grace was kind enough to do Clara's hair each morning as this is a skill I have not picked up in my 10 years as a father. It was also good to catch up with a few of Mark's friends in and around Hong Kong. This picture was taken at a place called Tung Chung, not too far from the airport, and shows Mark, Grace, Steff, Clara, and myself. More to follow soon.

Leaving Hong Kong

Hello all. Just a short update to say that Clara and I will leave Hong Kong and return to Tokyo tomorrow. Although the situation with regards to the nuclear power station in Fukushima is still very serious, it seems to be under control. If things take a turn for the worse, we will probably decide on another temporary move.

As Clara and I were displaced to Hong Kong, we took advantage of our time together and visited a number of places. This photo was taken at the Great Buddha on Lantau Island. We both said a silent prayer for the victims of the earthquake and tsunami in Japan.

Japan can be an infuriatingly stubborn country at times, and this is why I have no doubt whatsoever that the country and people will recover. The Japanese are strongest in times of adversity, and I fully believe they will demonstrate this again.

More to follow tomorrow night after a return home and a good home-cooked dinner. Thanks to all for the message of support via this blog, Facebook, and phone.

West Highland Free Press - Japan Reaction

The magnitude of events in Japan have even reached the front pages of local newspapers. The below story from the current edition of the West Highland Free Press gives the stories of West Highlanders in Japan. I am pleased to see they chose a very youthful picture of me.

The story reads:

West-coast ex-pats witness horrors unfolding in Japan
17th March 2011
As the world’s eyes continue to fix on the horrors unfolding in Japan this week, the Free Press has found that some West Highlanders currently living and working in the far east have been caught up in the chaos, fear and confusion which continues to envelop much of the nation.

Kane Davidson and daughter Clara

Kane Davidson, originally from Portree, made the decision to flee his home in Tokyo this week amid fears of the radiation risk that he and his young daughter may have faced due to the ongoing problems at the stricken Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant.

Mr Davidson has been keeping a blog of his experiences so far, noting that he first felt what he described as a “very strong quake with constant aftershocks,” last Friday evening. Since then the picture has been one of travel gridlock, electricity blackouts and rising concerns about the threat of aftershocks and meltdown at nuclear facilities some 300 kilometres to the north.

“Desperate times equals desperate measures,” he wrote on his blog on Tuesday. He said he and daughter Clara were booked on a flight to Hong Kong the following evening and added: “Under the normal course of events it would seem expensive. Right now, I’d mortgage the house to get out.”

The 36-year-old, who works in shipping, added that he hoped his wife could follow in a few days’ time. “Sadly, Yuki has decided to stay put. It must be difficult for her with her family and the fact that Japan is her homeland, but my sole goal is to avoid Clara being exposed to excessive radiation,” he said.

Meanwhile, a Lewisman currently living and working in Japan narrowly avoided the worst effects of the quake as he was stationed 250 kilometres from the areas that suffered the main damage.

However, 29-year-old Colin MacLeod from Point, currently an English teacher in Joetsu City, on the west coast of Honshu, said the tremors could be felt far and wide.

“I was at school when the Friday quake struck,” he told the Free Press. “We just got the tail end of it here, so there was a gentle rocking. However, it lasted for over two minutes, so we knew that somewhere was getting hit.

“On Saturday morning at 4am we felt a major tremor which was centred in Nagano and there were a number of sizeable aftershocks following that. That quake caused minor damage such as bookcases falling over, etc. We also felt the Shizuoka earthquake on Tuesday night but there was no damage.”

Mr MacLeod said the country was trying to get back to normal as best it could, but said that people were constantly keeping “one eye on the news”.

“In my region of Japan there have been two major earthquakes in the last six years, so people are prepared for earthquakes,” he added. “Emergency drills are conducted regularly and people have a grab bag with food, water, clothes, a torch, etc. There has been no panic buying, but events in Tokyo means that supply lines have been affected.”

Dr John Adamson, a retired GP in Kyle of Lochalsh, was another keeping a close eye on events. His son Calum has been teaching in Japan for several years and is married there with one son. He is currently based in the university city of Nara, near Kyoto, some 300 miles south west of Tokyo

“They are some distance from the devastation, but they still felt a bit of a shudder on Friday,” he said.

Faye Mackenzie, who is originally from Dunvegan and now lives in central Tokyo, described the quakes as “terrifying”. She was yesterday (Wednesday) helping the relief efforts through the Second Harvest Japan appeal, which will be seeking food and supply donations for the people in the earthquake-affected areas.

Donations to help the affected citizens of Japan can be sent via the Red Cross. To donate visit www.redcross.org.uk

Arrival in Hong Kong

Clara and I left Kumegawa yesterday morning (Wednesday) on the 7am train bound for Shinjuku in central Tokyo. The original plan had been to get in by bus as our train line was not in full operation for the last couple of days. Fortunately, the electricity supply was in operation and a limited service in and out of central Tokyo was provided. We were aiming for Haneda Airport and were accompanied into town by Yuki who was defiantly going into work. It was difficult to say goodbye to her when she get off at her stop near Tokyo.

I know that the chances of serious health risks in Tokyo are most likely low. However, I felt the window of opportunity closing and had to get Clara out before the risks of radiation increased, before mass panic set in, and before provisions run low. Of course, all of the above may not happen, I'm just not going to hang about to find out, especially with Clara. I have no regrets - I needed to act before we were boxed in with no room to manoeuvre.

I'm not sure what to think about the behaviour of the public in Tokyo. People are desperately trying to carry on as usual. The salarymen look the same and are reading the same old manga on the train, people are still handing out leaflets advertising English lessons, kids are going to school. The public are either incredibly brave or foolhardy. But what would people in any other country do? Your country is on the ropes and options are limited, so I guess many people would tough it out and try to keep the wheels of the economy from falling off. I was lucky, I had options and I was not bound to stay through national pride. It was clear for me that Clara had to get out, even if only for a week so we could assess the situation from afar.

I remember tossing and turning in bed on Tuesday night, before the early start to the airport on Wednesday. The sounds of the neighbourhood were much the same - a drunk salaryman singing karaoke in the snack bar across the street, and giggling girls walking past the house after a night out. It was strange to have such high levels of anxiety whilst others seemed non-plussed.

Clara was as tough as old boots yesterday. An early start with lots or travelling, waiting and queuing. Not one complaint. She took great pleasure with our business class seats on the flight to Taipei, and requested we fly first class next time. I will try and keep the mood light whilst we are in Hong Kong and plan to visit a few places with her - Disneyland seems to be top of her list.

Now Clara and I are with Mark (my brother in Hong Kong). We have breathing space to take stock and weigh up what is happening. Yuki said she may follow if things deteriorate further although I don't think moving will be possible in Tokyo if it does get to that stage. Clara has just finished a large breakfast and is now sitting on the sofa reading manga. Soon we will get ourselves cleaned up and head into Mui Wo for lunch and shopping at the local supermarket.

More thoughts to follow.

Getting Clear to Hong Kong

Desperate times = desperate measures. Clara and I have been booked on a JAL flight to Hong Kong (code share flight no CI 9223) leaving from Haneda Airport tomorrow at 17.55 via Taipei. Under the normal course of events it would seem expensive. Right now, I'd mortgage the house to get out. Because it is not direct, we arrive just after 8am on Thursday. Due to the chaos (but not yet panic), whether we get there or not seems a bit of a lottery.

Sadly, Yuki has decided to stay put. It must be difficult for her with her family and the fact that Japan is her homeland, but my sole goal is to avoid Clara being exposed to excessive radiation. Difficult choice to leave Yuki, but Clara and I need to get out. Yuki has said she may follow us to Hong Kong in a few days time, if that will be possible by then.

Wish us the best. I'll try and update Facebook when possible.

Quake +4: Radiation

Well, with thanks to a friend, I managed to seize the chance and get out of Makuhari. The journey was not straightforward and involved a number of trains and then finally a taxi. I have to be honest and say the current situation regarding the Fukushima nuclear reactors is extremely worrying. The news has continued to deteriorate day by day and I am wondering what the final outcome may be.

Worst case seems to be a multiple Chernobyl style situation. Many experts state that it is impossible to get that bad, but I don't think anyone knows for sure. I checked a map of radioactive hot spots around Chernobyl and think that as we are perhaps over 200 miles from the reactors, we should be okay. I cannot believe that I even have to consider the possibility of such an event.

Based on current information, the only immediate option is to sit tight. If we are confined inside, we should have enough provisions for a week or so. The key essential is water which we seem to have enough of. Some friends have managed to get tickets out of the country today whilst others are still looking.

It really is a terribly desperate situation that requires calmness of thought of a dash of common sense - batten down the hatches. Of course the main worry is any impact to the health of Clara.

I will try and keep you posted but if the threat escalates, we may have to confine ourselves to a more airtight and restricted living space. I may therefore not have much access to the outside world, apart from my iPhone which would probably not work anyway. That's it for now.

3.50pm UPDATE: Power cut for 3 hours from 4pm - 7pm. Won't be online till later.

9.30pm UPDATE: Clara and I have tickets to Hong Kong leaving Haneda Airport at 5.55pm tomorrow (via Taipei). I hope the plane runs on schedule. Against my protestations, Yuki has decided to stay put in Tokyo. Of course the priority for me is to get Clara away from any harmful radiation. Initial plan is 1 week Hong Hong, depending on how Japan copes.

US Geological Survey

The best source of seismic data (to my knowledge) is the website of the US Geological Survey. The below map shows an interesting representation of the seismic activity on the Pacific Seaboard of Japan. As can be seen, the seismic plates are clearly shown. I am now personally more concerned with the plates at 34N 142E. Geologists have said that there is now more loading on the plates near Tokyo, plates that are long overdue for readjustment.Everyone I speak to has a clear sense of foreboding which is fraying the nerves of all. I guess we will have to get used to living on the edge of our seats for the foreseeable future. As mentioned earlier, I will try and get back to Kumegawa tomorrow morning.

Quake +3: Marooned

Well, I am still stuck in Makuhari, Chiba Prefecture, sitting in a dark office. There were no power cuts today as it seems the Japanese public have reigned in their electricity consumption so far. The office is dark as part of the efforts to limit consumption, although such measures are not sustainable and I am getting eye strain from typing this paragraph. The office also has a very large crack in the wall extending from the 20th floor down to the ground.

As can be seen from the photos taken with my iPhone, despite being far from the epicenter, Makuhari has sustained some damage. There are numerous examples of holes and rips in the pavements and roads. Perhaps the most irritating aspect are the clouds of airborne dust swirling around - not good for the old respiratory system. The photos indicate a process called liquifaction, associated with loose and uncompacted soil.

Many of my colleagues have made unsuccessful efforts to escape Tokyo today. Some have tried to get a flight, some tried to hire cars to get some distance from Tokyo, some have tried to get petrol to fill up their tanks. All efforts were unsuccessful and so it appears that we will have to sit tight and hope for the best. Many of the embassies are advising their expats to get out of Tokyo in advance of more bad news on the nuke front and in anticipation of the expected large aftershock.

For most, the main worry has been radiation from the nuclear reactors in Fukushima, some 300km to the north. I am also equally concerned about the follow up 'aftershock' predicted to be 8 on the Richter scale. If this quake is confined to the same area as the first quake, at least Tokyo should survive with only a few more cuts and bruises. If it is closer to Tokyo, there could very well be thousands of more casualties. We have to wait and see.

Despite all the privations, I have managed to put a reasonable shift in at work today, although if I make it home, I don't think I'll return for a week to let things take their course.

So, the feeling is one of helplessness at the moment. It was obviously a big mistake to leave the house last night as I am not now sure when I can return. Makuhari is also on or below sea level so the spectre of another tsunami is very real.

I will try and put up another update when possible. Keep your fingers crossed.

Quake +2: Grim Uncertainty

Looking a bit bleak in Japan at the moment. Not only are there thousands of dead, but the continuing atomic problems seem to be worsening by the hour. It seems that the Japanese Government is being a bit economical with the truth as the safety zones gradually get larger and the problems escalate. If there is any large escape of radiation, it looks like Tokyo will get a good dose as the winds are forecast to blow to the south by tomorrow.

I am currently in Kaihin Makuhari in Chiba Prefecture where my office is located. Now in my ground floor apartment which is only a few hundred meters from the sea which is perhaps a mistake as the French Embassy are saying there is a 70% chance of a magnitude 7 quake hitting in the next few days. It that happened off the coast of Chiba, the apartment where I am now sitting would in all probability be washed away by the resultant tsunami. It is pretty cold at the moment but I am trying not to use any electricity unnecessarily in order to try and minimise the strain on the power grid.

So the plan is:
1. Early visit to the office tomorrow morning to check the situation.
2. Head back to Kumegawa and work as much as possible from home for the rest of the week - if I can get back..
3. Try and stock up and prepare as much as possible for the forthcoming power outages / additional quakes / possible radioactivity.

In short, things are fairly unpleasant. Not only has there been an awful earthquake, but there is also the possibility for things to get much worse.

I will keep you all posted. It seems the power cuts could last for over a month so my online visitations may be a bit briefer. Keep your fingers crossed.

The Next Day

Well, as far as I can tell, everyone I know is safe and well. Yuki managed to get home late last night and Clara seems to be returning to her normal self.

There have been constant aftershocks which keep everyone on edge but the main concern now seems to be the quake aftermath. I hope all the people we know in Fukushima are okay and that the damaged nuclear power stations do not go in to meltdown. If so, we will be staying inside the house for some time.

So, I would assume that for most Tokyoites, life will return to normal over the next few days providing there are no additional quakes to follow. Seems slightly unreal that many of the places we knew well in Fukushima Prefecture will never be quite the same again.

Magnitude 8.9 - NEAR THE EAST COAST OF HONSHU, JAPAN

Information courtesy of the US Geological Survey:

Earthquake Details

This event has been reviewed by a seismologist.

Magnitude 8.9

Date-Time

Friday, March 11, 2011 at 05:46:23 UTC

Friday, March 11, 2011 at 02:46:23 PM at epicenter

Location

38.322°N, 142.369°E

Depth

24.4 km (15.2 miles) set by location program

Region

NEAR THE EAST COAST OF HONSHU, JAPAN

Distances

130 km (81 miles) E (86°) from Sendai, Honshu, Japan

179 km (111 miles) ENE (68°) from Fukushima, Honshu, Japan

188 km (117 miles) SE (145°) from Morioka, Honshu, Japan

376 km (234 miles) NE (37°) from TOKYO, Japan

Location Uncertainty

horizontal +/- 13.5 km (8.4 miles); depth fixed by location program

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Very strong quake with constant aftershocks. Feeling a bit seasick. Clara and I sat under the dining room table for a good bit. Lots of rearranged furniture and spilt tea. House is still shaking. Wondering if the main event has passed or if it is the prelude to the Big One.

11.30pm - Had quite a few aftershocks since the main event. Clara now asleep and Yuki is stuck in Tokyo till tomorrow. City seems generally fine and the local area has returned to normal with the usual load of Friday night drunks roaming the streets. Although there will be a series of aftershocks to come, hopefully the main event has passed. Thanks for all the messages on this blog and on Facebook.