Wednesday, August 31, 2011

To Sapporo

On the 23rd August, we had a full itinerary on our epic journey from northern Hokkaido towards the south. Amongst other things, we stopped off at some picturesque waterfalls and spent about 3 hours at Japan's most popular zoo (Asahiyama Zoo). Going to a zoo seemed a little inappropriate to me - there are plenty to visit in any country or city around the world. I also feel uncomfortable that the animals are cooped up for their lives in small spaces purely for the enjoyment of humans. Clara loved it though and I must admit that watching the polar bear diving into a pool to retrieve fish was fascinating.

After departing the zoo, our journey continued to Flower Land. Not overly exciting and for me, a little disappointing. The large field of sunflowers all had drooping heads and I think that the famous fields of lavender had also already reached their peak a week or two before. The light rain was also a slight irritant.

The real prize for me was our stay in the city of Sapporo. Sapporo is world famous for the Snow Festival held each February - another good reason to make a return journey to Hokkaido one day. However, I was also interested to see the city as it is supposed to be unique amongst other Japanese cities as it adopts a more American style town plan.

Soon after arriving at our hotel in the Susukino area of the city (within the entertainment and red light district), we walked about 15 minutes or so to see Odori Park. The park is one of the well publicised images of Sapporo, so I was keen to get a quick glimpse before our search for a suitable place for dinner and drinks.

The only downside during our stay in Sapporo was the hectic schedule we had to stick to. We had woken up early (again) that morning and had spent an extremely busy and tiring day travelling to the aforementioned attractions. We also knew that there would be another early start the next day. Before the holiday, I was really looking forward to a good night out in Sapporo. Reality meant that I was in bed and fast asleep by 10.30pm. By trying to do too much, I actually failed to do some of the things I most wanted. Just too tired to explore the city, made worse by fear of being stuck on the bus the next day with a thumping hangover.

So similar to Shiretoko, Sapporo was a nice place to visit. In order to really appreciate it though, I will have to return one day.

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Shiretoko Peninsula

For as long as I can remember, I have always yearned to visit the Shiretoko Peninsula. I imagined raw and unspoilt scenery, an abundance of wildlife, and only a smattering of people. My expectations proved pretty accurate.The only problem was that we were on a bus tour - a simple and often stress free way to see a new place, but one that sticks to a rigid schedule (especially in Japan) where you cannot linger.

Perhaps the most memorable memory of my whole trip was simply sitting on the beach for 5 minutes next to Clara. The air was fresh, the waters in the Sea of Okhotsk were clear, and the amount of bird life around the coast was a reminder of the relatively untouched wilderness we were visiting. Shiretoko was fantastic - but our brief visit was nowhere near long enough. I regard our visit as a taster - I will return sometime in the future for at least a couple of days. The scenery in winter must be breathtaking.

On the short return walk from the beach to the car park, I noticed a large cluster of thistles (called azami in Japanese) - how could I not take a picture of the flower of Scotland? A few years ago, I remember being quite surprised to learn that thistles were commonly found in northern Japan. The parallels don't end there - Scotland and Hokkaido are almost exactly the same size with almost identical populations.

Shortly after lunch and our brief sojourn to the beach, we got back on the bus and went to see the fairly interesting Sea Ice Museum near the town Mombetsu. Every winter, the Sea of Okhotsk freezes over due to the continuous influx of fresh water from the Russian Amur River, thus lowering salinity. It must be quite a sight to see in winter!Shiretoko was everything I had hoped it would be - a real gem. Next time I visit, I won't be in such a rush to leave. Fantastic!

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Sapporo Classic

When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Sapporo Black Label (kuro label) is generally my beer of choice in Japan, but as I was in Hokkaido, I thought it more appropriate to drink Sapporo Classic. Classic is not sold anywhere else in Japan, only Hokkaido.

I enjoyed Classic to a certain extent, but my favourite is certainly still the thirst quenching Black Label.

As a fleeting memento of our holiday in Hokkaido, we have ordered two crates of Sapporo Classic. Delivery is scheduled for tomorrow (28th August).
More Hokkaido postings to follow shortly. Cheers!

Hokkaido - Akan National Park

Our long anticipated holiday to Hokkaido finally arrived when we flew up on Sunday 21st August. After a short bus journey from Kushiro Airport, our first night was spent beside Lake Akan, famous for green balls of algae called marimo. The area of Akan is also the last bastion of the indigenous people of Japan, the Ainu.

I have actually been to Lake Akan once before, about 14 years ago accompanied by vacationing university friends (Grambo, Bash, and Hank). We travelled up to Hokkaido on board the MV Blue Zephyr under clear blue skies, accompanied most of the way from Tokyo by dolphins. Unfortunately, this ferry service from Tokyo ceased some years ago - not at all surprising as we were practically the only passengers on board. As my friends and I all had such a great time during our visit in June 1997, I was excited to retrace some of my steps and see whether or not anything had changed - nothing had.

Memories of my last trip to Lake Akan are:
  • hiking to the top of Mount Oakan (and cutting my leg)
  • sleeping in the tent with the fear of being attacked by black bears
  • sitting relaxing and chatting by the campfire
  • bathing in the local onsen (and scaring the other patrons away)
  • a marathon pedalo trip on Lake Akan to a small island
  • listening to the hand over of Hong Kong on my small radio
This time, we stayed in the slightly more salubrious surroundings of the New Akan Hotel. The room was very nice and the dinner and breakfast buffet were certainly good for a fussy eater such as myself. After dinner, we wandered around the village for an hour or so looking at the usual tourist traps and paraphernalia - below is a picture of the famous marimo.
Clara is adamant that the marimo on sale are actually fake. She said that there is a little old lady who makes the green balls from regular algae and then puts them into jars for gullible tourists - I am inclined to believe her.

The best memory of our most recent trip to Lake Akan has to be the late night onsen and jacuzzi on the roof of our hotel. Very relaxing and peaceful.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Trip to Hokkaido

A holiday to the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido beckons. We all really cannot wait.

Hokkaido is the last unspoiled area of Japan, so it will be soothing on the eyes to see some wilderness as opposed to the Tokyo cityscape.

Our rough itinerary is:

Depart Haneda Airport tomorrow (21st August)
Stay at Lake Akan
Various places through the center of the island
Finishing off with a night in Hakodate (25th August)

I will obviously be taking the camera along so there will be some blog postings shortly....may even try and do a few updates whilst we are in Hokkaido.

I am most looking forward to Lake Akan, where my university friends and I stayed about 16 years ago. I have always wanted to visit Sapporo, so that should also be a highlight.

Clara is in very good form as she is looking forward to more travels. She has also just bought a new Pokemon game for her Nintendo 3DS so she is on cloud 9.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

I am now a dot.com

Hello All

In a sign of an overinflated ego, I have simplified the web address for this blog. It is now:


The old address should still work indefinitely, so you will not need to update your favourites. Not long until Hokkaido - more blogs to follow.

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Clara's 2011 Scottish Odyssey

Clara is now safely back in Tokyo after spending another fun-packed holiday in Scotland. My parents loved having Clara around the house and accompanying her on the numerous excursions around Inverness and the West Coast.

Clara had a quite extensive itinerary which included ice skating, visiting Landmark adventure park, staying two nights on the Isle of Harris (thanks to Neil and Rhoda at Blue Reef Cottages), visiting family on the Isle of Skye, a 3 night stay in a caravan at Embo, and messing about in the evenings with her Scottish friends. Too many events to remember.I hope the pictures and video will be able to express what a wonderful holiday she had back in Scotland.
Many thanks to my parents for putting Clara up and giving her such a wonderful time.We will all travel up to the northern island of Hokkaido on Sunday 21st August for 1 week. Although I have been to Hokkaido once before, I cannot wait to reacquaint myself. I will take my laptop computer with me on our journey and will try and do some updates as our holiday progresses.