Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Country BBQ and visit to Nikko

Adding to my unusually busy August, a group from my local bar and I headed out of Tokyo and up to Gunma Prefecture for a short excursion. The main event of the trip was the evening BBQ, although the following day we drove to Nikko (in Tochigi Prefecture), a place most famous for the grave of the former shogun / warlord, Tokugawa Ieyasu.

We stayed in a fairly basic Japanese ryokan (I guess it would equate to a cheap hotel in the Western world) in a village called Katashina. Although it was basic, we were certainly not slumming it and we all enjoyed the chance to take an onsen in the hotel's main building. It's a little odd - in previous years I used to take an onsen a least once a week, but since I moved to Tokyo, that almost never occurs. However, this August, I have had 3 onsen experiences and will probably have another during my forthcoming trip to Shimogo this coming weekend. From famine to feast in the space of only a few weeks.

Some of the group
After some fooling around in the very chilly river next to the hotel, we set up the BBQ and cracked open the beers. As night fell, I took a few minutes out to watch the disappearing sun silhouette the distant mountains. The different intensity of shadows indicated how far each mountain was from where I was standing. After this solitary moment of peace, I rejoined the revelry. Towards the end of the BBQ, we unwrapped some simple fireworks, including the excellent senko hanabi (which I mentioned in my previous post of the camping trip to Lake Ashinoko).

A few more hours of drinking in the hotel made sleep come very easy, but I was surprisingly fresh the following morning. Unfortunately, I didn't take many photos of the ryokan or BBQ, so you'll just have to imagine what it was like. We all decided that a visit to Nikko would be in order, and it was certainly worth the additional miles in the car.
Approach road
Although I've been to Nikko 2 or 3 times before, I enjoyed this visit just as much as previous occasions. Although very crowded (no surprise there), the wide open spaces and approach roads did not cause a strong feeling of claustrophobia.

Nikko is very impressive indeed! Perhaps the reason is because of the level of detail put into each building or object. Everything that can be seen is exquisitely made and detailed. Each component has been completed to the highest order with no compromise in terms of expense or time. Gilt is everywhere, but it doesn't give the impression of bling....quite the opposite. The scale of the shrine complex is also impressive.
Moss covered stone lanterns
The circumference of the cedar trees and the amount of moss on the stone lanterns and other stonework also helped to convey the historical value of the shrine complex. I liked the feeling of continuity which the trees and stonework gave out. The scene will hopefully remain unchanged for hundreds of years into the future.
Red lacquered (?) railing
We all returned to Tokyo relatively late on Sunday evening but everyone seemed to enjoy the opportunity to get out of Tokyo and see some new sights. Next weekend, Clara and will make a return to Shimogo. Another update soon.
Sake barrels given by corporate sponsors of the shrine


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