Pyongyang Metro

Supposedly the Pyongyang Metro is the world's deepest and intended to serve as a bomb shelter during times of war. The escalators down to the platform were certainly the longest I have seen.

I was curious to see whether or not we would be allowed to rub shoulders with some of the local population in an unrestricted manner. Some of the literature I have read regarding the Pyongyang Metro has suggested that everything is stage managed for the benefit of tourists, from the commuters to the arrival and departure of trains.

My conclusion is that the people we saw, from the elderly to young military personnel, were indeed going about their daily business. It would be unrealistic for the authorities to choreograph such a large number of people and trains just for our benefit.

Ticket to ride

The stations we saw were pretty much as I expected - grandly designed with sumptuous decorations and paintwork. The subway train we rode on (apparently imported from the former East Germany) was spotlessly clean, but had a slightly old-worldly feel about it.

The North Korean passengers tried their best to act nonplussed. However, I got the feeling that their apparent indifference masked fascination for the camera wielding hoard of foreigners. A few smiles were exchanged with the locals who looked smart and well dressed, although there was the unmistakable smell of unwashed bodies.

Apparently, the founder of the DPRK, Kim Il-sung dictated that all his fellow countrymen and women should take great care with their personal hygiene - easier said than done. With intermittent or non-existent water supplies in the hotels I stayed in, it was very difficult even for a privileged Western tourist to keep clean.

Next stop?

As with many of the buildings we visited, the subway stations were dimly lit, apart from areas that had a picture of one of the former leaders.

North Korean commuters

The stations we visited were relatively busy, even though we were travelling at a non-peak time. The efforts of the locals to remain indifferent and avoid eye contact at all costs was notable indeed.

Reading the daily news

I suspect that the two stations were visited were showpiece stations, displaying the best that the Pyongyang Metro has to offer. Although (as with the rest of our visit to the DPRK) the places and people we saw were tightly regulated, we still managed to glean a little more information about what goes on in this country.

The DMZ / Panmunjom

Divided Korean Peninsula

Perhaps the memory which sticks most in the mind of my time in North Korea was the visit to the Demilitarised Zone, the strip of land separating north from south. The area represents a lot of different things in the minds of people on both sides of the line - an anachronism of the Cold War, good versus evil, communism versus capitalism, the free world against the oppressors. The list could go on.

In the morning, before our DMZ experience, we actually went to the well preserved and ancient tomb of King Kongmin , seemingly miles from any town or village. However, there were still people toiling in nearby woods, doing whatever they do to scratch a living. As usual, reference was made to the Japanese occupation of Korea and to the occupying Japanese army who apparently ransacked the tomb. The tomb was badly damaged when the Japanese occupying forces blew it apart as they could not find the hidden entrance (I could, though!).

A stimulating start to the day, the fresh air waking us up for more interesting things to come - the tense DMZ.

DPRK Army guide

There is a lot to say about the DMZ and I am glad I can write down my thoughts for posterity. Driving towards the zone, I did not notice much sign of military activity. There was very little to indicate we were on the last tripwire of the Cold War. However, the tension rose very rapidly once our bus parked at the processing area for visitors to the DMZ.

During the short drive into the processing area, we were accompanied by a North Korean military guide. I tried to break the ice by offering him some chocolate from Japan - he refused. People were reluctant to take gifts originating from Japan, until they tried them. My stock of snacks from Japan was very popular amongst the guides and drivers during the entire week. Although he didn't accept the Japanese chocolate, the ice was indeed broken, and I thought I would try my next gambit - mentioning a missile test carried out the previous evening. This got his attention as he was surprised I would know about the test, having been cut off from all media over the preceding days (I was told by a person in another group who had just arrived in the country).

With his interest piqued, the Army guide started asking me my opinions on the joint US / South Korean military exercises, referred to as Foal Eagle. I replied that I thought they were unnecessary and inflammatory. Next, and more interestingly, he asked me about the upcoming vote for Scottish independence in September. He asked me whether it was really possible for Scotland to vote to decide whether or not to remain in the UK - my reply? "Yes, of course. The UK is a democratic country." I could see the cogs turning in his head, especially as the official name of his country is the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. At the end of our visit to the DMZ, the guide turned around and gave me a very warm handshake.

TIP: If you ever join a similar tour of North Korea, sit at the front of the bus. The chances of interaction with the locals is much higher, and you notice important details that you may have missed sitting further back.

Instructions were given not to take photos of anything of military interest. The group received a lecture on the history of the line which represents the DMZ today, and knowing full well it would probably be laced with historical and biased inaccuracies, I decided not to listen and went outside, away from the crowd. A woodpecker was busy drilling away in a nearby try, either that, or it was far off machine gun fire. The guard on duty outside was very twitchy and shooed me away when I got too close. I then decided to take a picture of something completely innocuous, a sign with a red star on it. The twitchy guard whistled at me to indicate his displeasure.

1953 - Signing the Armistice

Once the rest of the group had finished listening to the North Korean version of the history of the DMZ formation, we lined up in columns of 4, and walked towards the actual buildings right on the line between north and south.

We initially entered a building where the Armistice was signed in 1953. I got to sit at the exact position where the lead North Korean negotiator agreed terms with the United Nations force commander.

More history lessons followed, so I walked to a quiet corner of the room to look out the window. Unseen, I spied some North Korean soldiers doing their daily exercises on a gymnastics bar. They looked fit and muscular, very different to other soldiers that I saw  aimlessly walking around at other times during the tour.

Finally we were taken to the highlight, the line where the two sides face off.

As we arrive

When we arrived on the steps looking towards the south, there was only a smattering of United Nations troops on the other side, basically troops from South Korea and the USA. However, as soon as they saw our group, there was a show of force, as troops mainly from the USA rushed forward towards the line, puffed out their chests and clinched their fists. I wasn't impressed.....it was like an old showdown from the Wild West.

30 seconds later - a show of force

What I observed made me wonder if South Korea, the USA (and also China) really wish a resolution to the issues of a divided Korean Peninsula. My view is that all sides are happy to maintain the status quo, for fear of the unknown. The losers in this game are clearly the civilian people to the north of the line.

From the balcony

An experience I will never forget. I wonder how long the DMZ will remain in existence, and if it does disappear, will it be the result of another conflict or through peaceful reunification.

A night in Kaesong

The drive south from Pyongyang to Kaesong took about 3 hours. Although we were supposed to be travelling on one of the main highways in North Korea, we rarely saw any other vehicles on the road. We passed farmers and military personnel hiking in both directions, going to places we could only wonder about.

About halfway to Kaesong, we stopped at the only roadside service area for a toilet break and to stretch out legs. When we entered, the building was quite cold inside and there was obviously no electricity supply. The only employee I saw sold some snacks and drinks at the entrance, although she didn't have a bottle opener to pop open my beer. Next to the building, farmers were trying to add nutrients to the soil by burning the patchy grass.

We were all very pleased to finally arrive at the Kaesong Folk Hotel, but not really sure what experience we would have there.

Kaesong Folk Hotel

As usual, my room was basic, but adequate. The buildings forming the hotel complex were quite rustic and homely, with little courtyards containing little trees and shrubs. There was a little stream running between the hotel buildings with charming little stone footbridges every hundred meters or so. The hotel was gated which made it impossible for anyone to enter or leave without being seen.

My room for the night

Dinner was again plain and simple - not very exciting, but would probably count as a feast to many of the people living in the country. I was very nearly sick on the table when I tried to eat the local speciality - dog! The meat emitted an odd odour and the odd crunch of cartilage on my second bite very nearly set me off.

Outside my room

By the time dinner has finished and I had recovered from my dead dog experience, the only place we could go was to the hotel bar. The electricity supply was reasonably steady that night and only cut out a few times. We all had a great time singing karaoke, chatting to each other and the guides, and learning a few Korean dance moves. By the end of the night, the bar tables were completely covered with empty beer bottles - we felt sorry for the mess we had created, so helped the lady running the bar to tidy up a little.

Before the party really got going....

A great experience and a great night of carousing. After such a full day, I was happy to return to my cozy room which was kept warm with underfloor heating. I slept on the floor under a futon, much like you do at a traditional Japanese hotel or inn.

The next morning, my concerns about a lack of hot water were unfounded. Plenty of hot water in my bathroom which allowed me to scrub up quite well and feel ready to face another fascinating day in the DPRK. Unfortunately, not all the guests were as lucky as I. It turned out that my room was the only room to have any hot water. Even worse, the underfloor heating in another room caused a fellow traveler to wake up at 4am to see his suitcase had melted and a blue flame emanating from his shoe.

A typical North Korean travelling experience - one article I recently read stated that North Korea specialises in simultaneously fancy shitty places e.g. a hotel with beautiful rooms but with no water or air conditioning. From my observations, that is a pretty accurate description of many of the places I visited in the country.

More soon........the DMZ and the Pyongyang Metro.

Busy day in Pyongyang, then a drive south

The massive Kumsusan Mausoleum

March 16th represented our first full day in North Korea - it was a very, very busy day indeed. Highlights included visits to the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (to see and pay our respects (ahem) to the bodies of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il), the Martyrs' Cemetery, central Pyongyang, and the Pyongyang Gold Lane bowling alley. After such a jam packed day, we then drove south to stay near the DMZ at the Kaesong Folk Hotel.

Kim Jong-il

At the mausoleum, photography was prohibited inside the main building. We walked down long corridors and rode equally long travellators towards the rooms where we would observe the embalmed remains of Kim Il-sung and his heir, Kim Jong-il. Immediately before we entered the rooms where their bodies lay in state, we had to leave all possessions (absolutely everything) in a large and well organised cloakroom. Then we had to walk through large blowers to remove any potential forms of contamination.

We circled each body once, and had to bow three times at each. Once at the feet, once to the right side of their heads, and once on the left. When I had to pay my respects, various thoughts went through my head.......thoughts that I had better not voice on the internet.

Ladies in uniform

The best part about the visit to the mausoleum was the chance to walk outside in the massive square. We were able to see a wide cross section of the ruling apparatus of North Korea, all there to do their duty and pay their own respects. We saw personnel from different branches of the military, police officers, and smartly dressed men in suits who I assumed were party apparatchiks. After getting permission from their officers, a few of the female military (or police) personnel agreed to pose with us for some photos.

Next stop on our tour was a visit to the Martyrs' Cemetery which commemorates those killed fighting for independence from the Japanese. Throughout the duration of my stay, I heard a lot of anti-Japanese rhetoric. It seems that Japan is public enemy No. 1, followed by South Korea, and the United States. Rather surprisingly, the North Koreans actually seem to like the United Kingdom, perhaps because the UK has an embassy in Pyongyang.

Martyrs' Cemetery

Many of the places I saw and visited in North Korea were rundown and dilapidated. The hotels were barely adequate, most buildings were cold and poorly lit, and the farmers I saw seemed to work in pre-Industrial Revolution conditions. However, whenever the location involved the fight for independence against the Japanese or the latter Korean War, no expense was spared.

At the Martyrs' Cemetery, it was obvious that a lot of time and expense had been invested. Each headstone was topped with an actual bronze bust of the deceased. It was quite an impressive sight.

Even after the first day in North Korea, I found myself filtering out the constant references to the fight against the Japanese and the subsequent Korean War. Some of what we were told may very well have been true, but I thought that since 70 years had passed, North Korea would be better served thinking more about the future. Of course, I think the main reason why such focus is placed on events of the past is to control and frighten the North Korean population into obedience. What better way to maintain the loyalty and cooperation of the population then to scare them into thinking annihilation is only a short step away?

Following the cemetery, we headed into central Pyongyang to see more of the sights.

Paying homage

Statues, flags, and patriotic slogans were everywhere.

Pyongyang Main Square

By mid-afternoon, I think most of the tour group were a bit jaded from the busy schedule and from the twisted propaganda being fed to us. Throughout most of the trip, I did my best to politely listen and nod in acknowledgement, but on occasions it irritated me slightly. Our trip to the Golden Lane bowling alley was the perfect antidote and allowed me to drink a few (very nice) cold beers and also the opportunity for a Scotland v North Korea game of pool.

On the attack

After some slight trepidation, I found the courage to ask whether or not I could challenge one of the locals to a game. He and his friend were apparently on a date with two of the girls who were watching the game. There did not seem to be too much of a reaction to my request, and they were happy to allow me to play. The local rules were unusual to say the least, but it did not stop me from claiming victory in perhaps the first Scotland v North Korea game of pool. If only international relations were so simple.

The Koreans in the bowling alley were most probably the affluent sector of Pyongyang society. Everything (and everyone) we saw was the best the country could offer - I and my fellow travellers were under no illusions that in the North Korean countryside, the situation is probably very different.

Rush hour - Pyongyang style

After the bowling, we boarded the bus for our journey south towards the DMZ and our overnight stay at the Kaesong Folk Hotel. More to come soon.

The Ryanggang Hotel, Pyongyang

Ryanggang Hotel

For approximately half of our stay in North Korea, we would be staying in Pyongyang, at the Ryanggang Hotel. I wasn't expecting a luxurious experience during my visit to North Korea, although I was hoping to be able to shower each day with warm water. Fortunately, although it took some time for hot water to appear, I managed to have a good shower each morning and night.

Checking in

The hotel was clean, but very basic and very dated. However, it was good enough, the breakfasts and dinners were acceptable, if a little on the cold and bland side. I took some Kikkoman soy sauce with me from Japan which really helped add a bit of taste to the endless supply of omelettes during breakfasts. A couple from the United States passed around their well travelled Tabasco sauce which has apparently accompanied them to all four corners of the world.

As was the case for the whole of our stay in the country, we were not allowed to venture away from the hotel, perhaps not to hide any state secrets, but to protect the North Koreans from any potential embarrassment. There was certainly a very makeshift army camp a couple of minutes from the hotel with very scruffy soldiers pottering about - the guides used very subtle tactics in order to try and divert our gaze during the duration of our stay. On the final night, subtlety was dispensed with and our bus driver turned off all the lights to prevent us getting a further glimpse of the squalor the soldiers were living in.

My room - basic

As is apparent from the photo, the room was very basic. Essentially just a couple of very hard beds (which suited me perfectly) and some space to hang your clothes. The bathroom was actually quite modern and seemed to have been recently redecorated. I was quite happy staying here for 3 nights and I can say that I never had any terrible experiences. I think a good way to describe staying in a North Korean hotel is to say it is a bit like indoor camping. You will come across things which are not perfect, but all the important things like washing, eating, and sleeping will be done to the minimum acceptable standards.

First North Korean dinner

During our evenings in the hotel, there was very little to do but have an early night, or drink beer in the hotel lobby or the rooftop revolving (!) restaurant. Everyone opted to drink beer each night into the small hours. There was a great mix of people on the tour from a number of different countries (France, UK, Ireland, Germany, Poland, USA, Netherlands, Australia, Norway) and the cameraderie was very good indeed - lots of chatting and story telling.

Power cut

One aspect of life in North Korea which we soon all became accustomed to were the power cuts. Throughout our first night in the hotel revolving bar (which did not so much revolve, rather wobble when the motors were on), we had to deal with complete darkness every 30 minutes or so. Each power cut would last 1 or 2 minutes before we could turn off our handheld or iPhone torches. By the second night, we were all fully prepared with torches and the conversations would not even pause as we grew accustomed to the inconvenience.

The Ryanggang Hotel is in a slightly lofty position above Pyongyang. In most cities around the world, you would expect to have some sort of night  view of the city and of the inhabitants going about their business - not in Pyongyang. Complete darkness!

Apologies for my rather lethargic updates regarding my trip to North Korea. I will do my very best over the next few days to give you another insight into my holiday to this rather hermitic country. More soon, I promise....

Pyongyang - The first day

We were kept busy throughout our stay in North Korea. Before we had even checked into our hotel, we were taken to the first of many sights we were to see, the Arch of Triumph. The scale of the arch was impressive - it is supposed to be 11 meters larger than the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. 1925 represents the year when resistance to Japanese colonial rule began whilst 1945 represents the eventual expulsion of the Japanese army from the Korean Peninsula.

Pyongyang - Arch of Triumph

Visiting this monument also allowed us all to gauge how closely we would be corralled during our stay in the country. We were allowed comparative freedom, but if you pushed the boundaries, you would be gently reminded to get closer to the group. I found that by walking slowly, you could actually get a little bit further away before being summoned back.

Kim Il-sung football stadium

So, the first day in Pyongyang was a success. We saw a few of the famous sights, and were allowed to  watch the people of Pyongyang (Pyongyangers?) going about their business. We all fully realised that Pyongyang is not representative of the entire country, but shows perhaps those who are the most well-off. We can only guess at the situation within the North Korean countryside.

Next, the hotel.

Getting into North Korea

The flight from Tokyo to Beijing was uneventful, although I was happy to fly in a Boeing 787 for the first time. The seats were slightly wider, there was slightly more leg room, and I liked the much larger (and electrically dimmable) windows. Unfortunately, cabin noise seemed to be much like any other aircraft I have flown on.

After arriving at Beijing Airport (and narrowly avoiding getting scammed twice by taxi touts and drivers), I checked into my hotel, showered, and then made it across town for the orientation lecture in order to prepare my group for our visit to North Korea (or the DPRK as they like to call it).

The orientation did not provide me with any surprises and I did not interact at all with the other members of the group who I would be travelling with the following day. At that stage, I never suspected we would all get along so well.

My first taste of Beijing followed after the orientation when I went for a couple of beers and some food before heading back to my hotel room. It was a good night, and I enjoyed speaking to a couple of pilots flying 747-8s for Cargolux.

Check in for Prongyang

The following morning, I hurriedly packed my bags and made it to the airport. It turns out I was the last to check in at the Air Koryo desk, hence my seat being at the very back of the plane. The entry visa for North Korea was provided just before check in - a simple blue document with my name and personal details.

DPRK Visa

Soon after check in, we were on the Tupolev 204 and on our way to Pyongyang. The flight was very pleasant as I got chatting with a couple of fellow travellers from my tour group, but also to members of the North Korean women's football team who were returning from a tournament in Portugal. Lovely ladies with big smiles and a sense of humour, despite their obvious disappointment at losing to the USA in the 2014 Algarve Cup. They seemed quite comfortable in our presence and were happy to try and communicate with us. It seems they are used to travelling and reeled off a list of countries that would have impressed even Michael Palin. Some of the players had goods with them which they presumably cannot buy in the DPRK.

Burger and beer

I got my first taste of North Korean food on the plane - a rather dubious burger which was said to contain chicken. I also got my first taste of censorship, when a rather unfriendly stewardess made me delete some photos taken from within the plane. I am left wondering why the backs of people's heads are considered such a matter of national security. Still, the Korean beer was quite nice.

The flight to Pyongyang presented me with my first experience of the North Korean print media. I was handed a copy of the newspaper which unsurprisingly had a picture of their current leader, Kim Jong-un. Readers of the newspaper must ensure that when folded, the fold does not in any way cut across the image of the leader. It you break this rule, it can cause quite a lot of trouble.

After 2 hours in the air, we made a rather bumpy landing at Pyongyang International (!) Airport. Immigration was in a dark building where all mobile phones were taken away to be inspected before being returned. Surprisingly, when I left the terminal building, I immediately recognised one of the North Koreans standing in the car-park. It was a tour guide who had featured in a YouTube documentary titled 'Land of Whispers'. Fortunately, it would turn out that he would not be the guide on my group.

On the tarmac in Pyongyang

A safe arrival. Many more stories to come.

Visits to China and North Korea

I am very excited to say that I will soon be visiting both China and North Korea. My flight leaves Haneda Airport at 9.10am tomorrow morning (14th March).

Because I'm an aviation junky, perhaps one of the biggest highlights for me will be to travel to Beijing on a Japan Airlines Boeing 787. The 787 is a relatively new aeroplane, so this flight will be a new experience for me. The seats are supposedly bigger, the air quality better, and the cabin better lit (with larger windows). I'll report my impressions of the 787 from Beijing or when I return to Japan on the 23rd March.

JAL 787

In addition, I will probably fly to Pyongyang on a Russian made Tupolev or Ilyushin. The rough itinerary for my trip is:

14th March - 9.10am flight to Beijing
15th March - flight from Beijing to Pyongyang (staying at the Ryanggang Hotel)
16th March - Pyongyang (staying at the Jangsusan Hotel)
17th March - Pyongyang (staying at the Ryanggang Hotel)
18th March - Pyongyang and Kaesong (staying at the Minsok Folk Hotel)
19th March - DMZ, Kaesong, and Pyongyang (staying at the Ryanggang Hotel)
20th March - Pyongyang AM and then train to Beijing (25 hours)
21st March - Arrive Beijing
22nd March - Beijing
23rd March - 4.40pm flight back to Tokyo

I am very interested to see North Korea - a country hardly ever seen or visited. There are no safety concerns, although there are obvious ethical arguments why people should not visit the country. Some places that I will visit on my travels in North Korea will be the mausoleum housing the two previous rulers, Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, Pyongyang Metro, a beer factory, a food factory, the Juche Tower, a junior high school, and the DMZ (looking south).

More updates to follow soon, perhaps when I arrive in Beijing tomorrow evening.

The Scottish Winter Holiday - a quick (and late) snapshot

Apologies to readers for not providing updates regarding the Christmas and New Year holiday in Scotland. I'm even going to cheat and allocate this posting to February. Basically, below are a number of photos which were taking at different times (but in chronological order) throughout our holiday with a brief description.

Friends with treasure hunt prizes

The day after our arrival in Scotland (December 22nd), it was Clara's 13th birthday. My Mum had been very busy planning a treasure hunt for Clara and her friends - a great way to break the ice. In addition, to celebrate Clara's birthday, they also went bowling and had a special birthday meal (with cake) at home. It was an event filled way for Clara to see her Scottish friends again. Big thanks to my parents for such a tremendous effort to celebrate Clara's birthday.

Relaxing on the sofa

Kids in Japan lead very busy lives - completely different compared to the lives of Scottish kids. As a result, Clara really just wanted to relax and chill out a lot during her holiday in Scotland. She certainly managed to do that! She loved playing her Nintendo 3DS, reading, or just dozing on one of my parent's sofas.

Xmas dinner

This Christmas, we decided to make it a special occasion and eat out. I am sure Clara managed to feel some of the Christmas atmosphere which is completely lacking in Japan - hopefully a long lasting and special memory for her. The highlight of the dinner were the balloons which would screech to the far end of the dining room......hilarity for the diners, although the staff seemed to tire of this quite quickly.

A cold Loch Ness

One day, we went for a delicious lunch at the quaint Dores Inn on the banks of Loch Ness. Before and after, we had a short stroll beside Loch Ness and enjoyed the views. It seems such an alien place to me now, as I am sitting typing this in Roppongi Hills. I loved the cold, brisk, and invigorating wind.

Clara and Pauline / Mum / Granny

The above picture was taken in the Dores Inn as we were waiting for lunch to be served. I'm not sure what Clara and Mum were talking about, but they seemed to have fun. As usual, I loved having a couple of mid-afternoon Scottish ales. I would equally love to spend a long summer afternoon at the Dores Inn enjoying a few pints with friends......perhaps this summer.

Skye - windy but nice

Clara and I only managed to visit Skye once during our holiday. I would like to spend more time there, but there is almost nothing left from the old days and I almost feel like a stranger when I visit. Still, we stayed one night and did some memorable things. Short walks, a drive up north, saw a few relatives, and ate some good food. Taking Clara to Skye is pretty important for me - I want her to have some connection with her roots and I want her to know that there is much more to life than just Japan. I think she's old enough now to fully realise that.

The Quiraing on Skye

One of many dramatic places on Skye! Clara seemed doubly impressed when I told her this area featured in a new Hollywood movie starring Keanu Reevses (47 Ronin). When we were driving around, I could really sense Clara soaking up the memories and understanding her connection to Scotland.

Clara and Aunty Annie

Annie, my Grandmother's sister, is a real legend. We always make the time to visit Annie and see how she is. Annie, true to form, drowned us in tea and made sure we filled our stomachs with biscuits. Clara always warms to Annie very quickly, as is apparent in this picture.

So that's it..........a short snapshot of our holiday in Scotland. We both had a great time and are very appreciative of the effort my parents made. For me, another highlight were the regular pints in the Castle Tavern with Neil, and on my final night, also sharing pints with Graham and Malcolm. Good times!

Happy 2014 from Scotland

To blow some of the cobwebs away, we all decided to have a stroll along Rosmarkie beach today. A good start to the year.

Wishing all readers a great 2014!

Clara's 13th Birthday

Clara and I have reached the mid-point of our holiday in Scotland - we've had a great time so far. The first important event of our holiday was on the 22nd December - Clara's 13th birthday. Although a bit jet lagged, my parents took Clara and her Scottish friends bowling, held a small birthday party at their home, followed by a treasure hunt in the evening with the clues located around the neighbourhood. Clara and her friends had a great time, despite the freezing sleet.

It is amazing to think that a week has passed already. We have had a good Christmas, done a bit of shopping, and made a short visit to Skye. More updates on all our activities will follow soon.