The DMZ / Panmunjom

Divided Korean Peninsula

Perhaps the memory which sticks most in the mind of my time in North Korea was the visit to the Demilitarised Zone, the strip of land separating north from south. The area represents a lot of different things in the minds of people on both sides of the line - an anachronism of the Cold War, good versus evil, communism versus capitalism, the free world against the oppressors. The list could go on.

In the morning, before our DMZ experience, we actually went to the well preserved and ancient tomb of King Kongmin , seemingly miles from any town or village. However, there were still people toiling in nearby woods, doing whatever they do to scratch a living. As usual, reference was made to the Japanese occupation of Korea and to the occupying Japanese army who apparently ransacked the tomb. The tomb was badly damaged when the Japanese occupying forces blew it apart as they could not find the hidden entrance (I could, though!).

A stimulating start to the day, the fresh air waking us up for more interesting things to come - the tense DMZ.

DPRK Army guide

There is a lot to say about the DMZ and I am glad I can write down my thoughts for posterity. Driving towards the zone, I did not notice much sign of military activity. There was very little to indicate we were on the last tripwire of the Cold War. However, the tension rose very rapidly once our bus parked at the processing area for visitors to the DMZ.

During the short drive into the processing area, we were accompanied by a North Korean military guide. I tried to break the ice by offering him some chocolate from Japan - he refused. People were reluctant to take gifts originating from Japan, until they tried them. My stock of snacks from Japan was very popular amongst the guides and drivers during the entire week. Although he didn't accept the Japanese chocolate, the ice was indeed broken, and I thought I would try my next gambit - mentioning a missile test carried out the previous evening. This got his attention as he was surprised I would know about the test, having been cut off from all media over the preceding days (I was told by a person in another group who had just arrived in the country).

With his interest piqued, the Army guide started asking me my opinions on the joint US / South Korean military exercises, referred to as Foal Eagle. I replied that I thought they were unnecessary and inflammatory. Next, and more interestingly, he asked me about the upcoming vote for Scottish independence in September. He asked me whether it was really possible for Scotland to vote to decide whether or not to remain in the UK - my reply? "Yes, of course. The UK is a democratic country." I could see the cogs turning in his head, especially as the official name of his country is the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. At the end of our visit to the DMZ, the guide turned around and gave me a very warm handshake.

TIP: If you ever join a similar tour of North Korea, sit at the front of the bus. The chances of interaction with the locals is much higher, and you notice important details that you may have missed sitting further back.

Instructions were given not to take photos of anything of military interest. The group received a lecture on the history of the line which represents the DMZ today, and knowing full well it would probably be laced with historical and biased inaccuracies, I decided not to listen and went outside, away from the crowd. A woodpecker was busy drilling away in a nearby try, either that, or it was far off machine gun fire. The guard on duty outside was very twitchy and shooed me away when I got too close. I then decided to take a picture of something completely innocuous, a sign with a red star on it. The twitchy guard whistled at me to indicate his displeasure.

1953 - Signing the Armistice

Once the rest of the group had finished listening to the North Korean version of the history of the DMZ formation, we lined up in columns of 4, and walked towards the actual buildings right on the line between north and south.

We initially entered a building where the Armistice was signed in 1953. I got to sit at the exact position where the lead North Korean negotiator agreed terms with the United Nations force commander.

More history lessons followed, so I walked to a quiet corner of the room to look out the window. Unseen, I spied some North Korean soldiers doing their daily exercises on a gymnastics bar. They looked fit and muscular, very different to other soldiers that I saw  aimlessly walking around at other times during the tour.

Finally we were taken to the highlight, the line where the two sides face off.

As we arrive

When we arrived on the steps looking towards the south, there was only a smattering of United Nations troops on the other side, basically troops from South Korea and the USA. However, as soon as they saw our group, there was a show of force, as troops mainly from the USA rushed forward towards the line, puffed out their chests and clinched their fists. I wasn't impressed.....it was like an old showdown from the Wild West.

30 seconds later - a show of force

What I observed made me wonder if South Korea, the USA (and also China) really wish a resolution to the issues of a divided Korean Peninsula. My view is that all sides are happy to maintain the status quo, for fear of the unknown. The losers in this game are clearly the civilian people to the north of the line.

From the balcony

An experience I will never forget. I wonder how long the DMZ will remain in existence, and if it does disappear, will it be the result of another conflict or through peaceful reunification.