Tokyo to Sakaiminato Departure

Chugoku Region of Honshu Island

After leaving Tokyo on the 27th August, having spent the previous evening with my friend Alan, I headed down the main island of Honshu on the shinkansen in order to near my final Japan departure point of Sakaiminato. I had a few days to play with so decided to spend 1 night in Okayama and 2 nights in the city of Matsue, capital of Shimane Prefecture. Okayama was pleasant enough, but I was happy to leave after one night to inch closer to the ferry port.

The train journey between Okayama City and Matsue on the Yakumo train was a real showcase for the Japanese countryside. Ripe rice fields, heavily forested mountains, rivers, old wooden houses, and little family grave plots appearing here and there.

Matsue initially seemed like a poor choice of location to spend a couple of nights. The streets around my hotel were almost deserted during the day, but things quickened up in the evening, especially on Friday night. I found an Irish bar called St James’s Gate, run by a Canadian Serb. Having spent two nights there, I became quite friendly with all the customers – a fun couple of evenings.

Needing to check out of the Dormy (!) InnHotel at 10am on the 30th of August left me with quite a bit of time on my hands until my ferry departure. I hopped in a taxi and went in search of Tamatsukuri onsen, not too far from Matsue town centre for my last authentic Japanese bath. After a soak, a local pointed me in the direction of a soba restaurant - the husband and wife owners were kind beyond words. They didn't charge me for my oolong tea and then kindly brought me a cup of coffee. The husband then started leafing through brochures advising me of place to visit and handed me his business card. I’m glad my final day in Japan was littered with such acts of kindness.

 

MV Eastern Dream - Japan to Russia

The bus journey from Matsue to Sakaiminato was breathtaking. More rice fields, beautiful islands, lagoons, and traditional architecture. The perfect weather added to the general beauty. What a fantastic last day in Japan! I would recommend anyone to visit Shimane and Tottori Prefecutures.

Arriving at Sakaiminato, I had a couple of hours to kill. I found a small cafe, wrote a blog, and made sure I was familiar with the latest world news, including Russia's incursion into Ukraine. Then it was time to board the ferry.

Ferry doesn't really do the MV Eastern Dream justice – it has a bar, nightclub, large Japanese style bath, and other facilities. Once again, the people have so far been friendly. There seems to be a smattering of nationalities from around the world, but mainly Japanese and Koreans.

The departure from Japan couldn't have been better. The sun setting as the ferry pulled away from the quayside. Mountains in the distance and the craggy coastline slowly gliding by. It was hard not to think about all the memories accrued over the years and the wonderful people I was leaving behind. Clara was foremost in my mind.

Sunset departure from Japan

Now it is around 8.30pm and I’m sitting in my bunk but about to head out onto deck. Then maybe check out the bar and nightclub!! The ferry is juddering away as it steams towards Donghae where I will have around 4 hours of shore time before the last leg to Vladivostok.

 

My bunk

Choosing the ferry and the Trans Siberian Express as my way of leaving Japan looks more and more like the right decision. A swift and brutal departure from Narita Airport would have almost been disrespectful to the time I spend in this country. The two sharp blasts of the ships horn was a poignant salute to the country I was leaving behind.

So, 2 days to travel on the MV Eastern Dream with no doubt a few stories to tell before I reach Vladivostok.