Pyongyang to Beijing by train

Pyongyang train station

After breakfast at the Ryangang Hotel on the 20th of March, our group split up. Some would experience the newly opened Masik Skiing Resort, some take the train from Pyongyang to Beijing, whilst others would fly direct to Beijing. The ones flying direct to Beijing were the Americans - they were not trusted to take the train.

The train ride out was another memorable experience and allowed us to see the stark changes between North Korea and China. Pyongyang looked typically austere as we left with very few cars moving about. I got the feeling that this train journey to China is still a fairly unusual event as the train garnered a lot of attention as we left the station.

I was in a 4 bunk room, sharing with our tour leader and two Chinese businessmen. The tour leader who has travelled this route on numerous occasions was sure the two Chinese were involved in some sort of illicit trade.

Few of us were in any doubt that being confined to the train for a day could only mean one thing - beer, lots of beer. The beer drinking started as soon as we left Pyongyang and only finished in the small hours when the final person had passed out. It was a great way to end the trip and there was a good deal of cameraderie between the group members.

Our Juche Tower

My  compartment turned out to be the party place as the Chinese businessmen left the train at the Chinese border. The border / customs check by the North Korean military seemed thorough and I had the pleasure of direct contact with the Colonel in charge of the operation. He seemed to know the Chinese businessmen and I certainly do believe there was an understanding that they would be allowed to cross the border without a too thorough check.

The Colonel sat on my bunk and then went through my possessions. He opened my wallet and saw Japanese money which resulted in a number of questions. He went through my bag and inspected any items of interest. He paid close attention to my watch and then frisked me down. When he left, he must have warmed to me, as he turned around and gave me a very friendly handshake. It seems I have some mysterious skills which allow me to win over North Koreans quickly.

We spent our time eating and drinking in the restaurant car, drinking in our compartment, or chatting and drinking near one of the samovars which provided piping hot water for the passengers who had taken instant noodles with them.

The journey was immense fun and is perhaps the biggest reason why I have decided to travel from Vladivostok to Europe by train in September. An excellent end to an excellent trip in North Korea - many memories contained within this blog and some only within my mind.

The end of an epic journey

Apologies for the photos in this post - all were taken using my iPhone.