Busy day in Pyongyang, then a drive south

The massive Kumsusan Mausoleum

March 16th represented our first full day in North Korea - it was a very, very busy day indeed. Highlights included visits to the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun (to see and pay our respects (ahem) to the bodies of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il), the Martyrs' Cemetery, central Pyongyang, and the Pyongyang Gold Lane bowling alley. After such a jam packed day, we then drove south to stay near the DMZ at the Kaesong Folk Hotel.

Kim Jong-il

At the mausoleum, photography was prohibited inside the main building. We walked down long corridors and rode equally long travellators towards the rooms where we would observe the embalmed remains of Kim Il-sung and his heir, Kim Jong-il. Immediately before we entered the rooms where their bodies lay in state, we had to leave all possessions (absolutely everything) in a large and well organised cloakroom. Then we had to walk through large blowers to remove any potential forms of contamination.

We circled each body once, and had to bow three times at each. Once at the feet, once to the right side of their heads, and once on the left. When I had to pay my respects, various thoughts went through my head.......thoughts that I had better not voice on the internet.

Ladies in uniform

The best part about the visit to the mausoleum was the chance to walk outside in the massive square. We were able to see a wide cross section of the ruling apparatus of North Korea, all there to do their duty and pay their own respects. We saw personnel from different branches of the military, police officers, and smartly dressed men in suits who I assumed were party apparatchiks. After getting permission from their officers, a few of the female military (or police) personnel agreed to pose with us for some photos.

Next stop on our tour was a visit to the Martyrs' Cemetery which commemorates those killed fighting for independence from the Japanese. Throughout the duration of my stay, I heard a lot of anti-Japanese rhetoric. It seems that Japan is public enemy No. 1, followed by South Korea, and the United States. Rather surprisingly, the North Koreans actually seem to like the United Kingdom, perhaps because the UK has an embassy in Pyongyang.

Martyrs' Cemetery

Many of the places I saw and visited in North Korea were rundown and dilapidated. The hotels were barely adequate, most buildings were cold and poorly lit, and the farmers I saw seemed to work in pre-Industrial Revolution conditions. However, whenever the location involved the fight for independence against the Japanese or the latter Korean War, no expense was spared.

At the Martyrs' Cemetery, it was obvious that a lot of time and expense had been invested. Each headstone was topped with an actual bronze bust of the deceased. It was quite an impressive sight.

Even after the first day in North Korea, I found myself filtering out the constant references to the fight against the Japanese and the subsequent Korean War. Some of what we were told may very well have been true, but I thought that since 70 years had passed, North Korea would be better served thinking more about the future. Of course, I think the main reason why such focus is placed on events of the past is to control and frighten the North Korean population into obedience. What better way to maintain the loyalty and cooperation of the population then to scare them into thinking annihilation is only a short step away?

Following the cemetery, we headed into central Pyongyang to see more of the sights.

Paying homage

Statues, flags, and patriotic slogans were everywhere.

Pyongyang Main Square

By mid-afternoon, I think most of the tour group were a bit jaded from the busy schedule and from the twisted propaganda being fed to us. Throughout most of the trip, I did my best to politely listen and nod in acknowledgement, but on occasions it irritated me slightly. Our trip to the Golden Lane bowling alley was the perfect antidote and allowed me to drink a few (very nice) cold beers and also the opportunity for a Scotland v North Korea game of pool.

On the attack

After some slight trepidation, I found the courage to ask whether or not I could challenge one of the locals to a game. He and his friend were apparently on a date with two of the girls who were watching the game. There did not seem to be too much of a reaction to my request, and they were happy to allow me to play. The local rules were unusual to say the least, but it did not stop me from claiming victory in perhaps the first Scotland v North Korea game of pool. If only international relations were so simple.

The Koreans in the bowling alley were most probably the affluent sector of Pyongyang society. Everything (and everyone) we saw was the best the country could offer - I and my fellow travellers were under no illusions that in the North Korean countryside, the situation is probably very different.

Rush hour - Pyongyang style

After the bowling, we boarded the bus for our journey south towards the DMZ and our overnight stay at the Kaesong Folk Hotel. More to come soon.

The Ryanggang Hotel, Pyongyang

Ryanggang Hotel

For approximately half of our stay in North Korea, we would be staying in Pyongyang, at the Ryanggang Hotel. I wasn't expecting a luxurious experience during my visit to North Korea, although I was hoping to be able to shower each day with warm water. Fortunately, although it took some time for hot water to appear, I managed to have a good shower each morning and night.

Checking in

The hotel was clean, but very basic and very dated. However, it was good enough, the breakfasts and dinners were acceptable, if a little on the cold and bland side. I took some Kikkoman soy sauce with me from Japan which really helped add a bit of taste to the endless supply of omelettes during breakfasts. A couple from the United States passed around their well travelled Tabasco sauce which has apparently accompanied them to all four corners of the world.

As was the case for the whole of our stay in the country, we were not allowed to venture away from the hotel, perhaps not to hide any state secrets, but to protect the North Koreans from any potential embarrassment. There was certainly a very makeshift army camp a couple of minutes from the hotel with very scruffy soldiers pottering about - the guides used very subtle tactics in order to try and divert our gaze during the duration of our stay. On the final night, subtlety was dispensed with and our bus driver turned off all the lights to prevent us getting a further glimpse of the squalor the soldiers were living in.

My room - basic

As is apparent from the photo, the room was very basic. Essentially just a couple of very hard beds (which suited me perfectly) and some space to hang your clothes. The bathroom was actually quite modern and seemed to have been recently redecorated. I was quite happy staying here for 3 nights and I can say that I never had any terrible experiences. I think a good way to describe staying in a North Korean hotel is to say it is a bit like indoor camping. You will come across things which are not perfect, but all the important things like washing, eating, and sleeping will be done to the minimum acceptable standards.

First North Korean dinner

During our evenings in the hotel, there was very little to do but have an early night, or drink beer in the hotel lobby or the rooftop revolving (!) restaurant. Everyone opted to drink beer each night into the small hours. There was a great mix of people on the tour from a number of different countries (France, UK, Ireland, Germany, Poland, USA, Netherlands, Australia, Norway) and the cameraderie was very good indeed - lots of chatting and story telling.

Power cut

One aspect of life in North Korea which we soon all became accustomed to were the power cuts. Throughout our first night in the hotel revolving bar (which did not so much revolve, rather wobble when the motors were on), we had to deal with complete darkness every 30 minutes or so. Each power cut would last 1 or 2 minutes before we could turn off our handheld or iPhone torches. By the second night, we were all fully prepared with torches and the conversations would not even pause as we grew accustomed to the inconvenience.

The Ryanggang Hotel is in a slightly lofty position above Pyongyang. In most cities around the world, you would expect to have some sort of night  view of the city and of the inhabitants going about their business - not in Pyongyang. Complete darkness!

Apologies for my rather lethargic updates regarding my trip to North Korea. I will do my very best over the next few days to give you another insight into my holiday to this rather hermitic country. More soon, I promise....